Fuse and XFINITY have come together to give you a chance to win a full day and night of enjoyment in Boston! One lucky winner will win a pair of tickets to an event of their choice at the Citi Performing Arts Center Wang Theatre, a music prize pack including an MP3 player and headphones, a gift certificate for a night on the town and a pair of tickets to a local Boston museum or attraction! In short, it’s one of the few contests worth entering.
To enter, simply head here and fill out the quick registration form. This sweeps is only open to residents of Massachusetts and ends next Thursday, October 13th, so get on it now.
That meant NOW, kids.
That said,when Alex Hall calls me with an invite, I know all of that will be different. Her parties are as dynamic and as wildly fun as she is. That is, as polished and perfect as they are effortlessly enjoyable. And it is a testament to her inexhaustible charm that she attracts the best and the brightest of Boston’s many circles: the artists, photographers, interior designers, PR folk, musicians, writers, models, and, yes, even the fashion folk. Nearly everyone knows her. Perhaps more notable is that I’ve yet to meet a person who doesn’t love her.
This past Wednesday she hosted a celebration of Boston’s top models at Forum, creating a unique and necessary niche during the Boston Fashion Week maelstrom. I went for the reasons aforementioned.
It may be the first time I’ve enjoyed a party in Boston that wasn’t for StyleBoston (our parties are EPIC). The models, a spot-on mix of incredible girls from the city’s top agencies (Click, Dynasty Models & Talent, Maggie Inc, Model Club), looked absolutely stunning, and represented the true range of Boston talent. Joico flew in celeb stylist George Papanikolas (who was quite handsome himself) from L.A. to prepare the models for their fête beforehand with Maxime Salon. Makeup was apparently done by Glow Beauty Boutique and Skincare in Braintree, but it was so flawless I hardly noticed makeup at all. A beautiful show of restraint on the part of the Glow team.
And yes, as is customary at such events, I gulped down more of the specialty Brugal Rum cocktails, particularly the “Cover Shot” (irony?), than is prudent to admit. But let’s just say I hate rum and I somehow couldn’t get enough of these concoctions. That’s how good they were.
As for the food Forum prepared, well, all I can say at this point is that there may or may not be photographic evidence of me devouring nearly an entire cheese plate, all by my lonesome. Let me also say that were such photographic evidence ever to surface, I know which photographer would be to blame, and there’s little worse than a woman scorned. Or besmirched. Or photographed devouring nearly an entire cheese plate by herself. I’m just saying I’d be angry, is all.
Below is a gallery, courtesy of Randy Gross of Elevin Studios. Cyberstalk the guests at your leisure.
This weekend the Boston Symphony Orchestra opened its 2011/2012 season, the first sans longstanding conductor James Levine. On the program were Mozart’s five violin concertos, performed over two consecutive evenings. It was a bold choice for the BSO, as of those five concertos only two—the third in G Major and the fifth in A Major—enjoy any notable popularity. The first and second concertos, while clear examples of Mozart’s early musical genius, are hardly ever played. The fourth is played more frequently than the first two, but not by any great margin. Clearly, the BSO understood: the third and the fifth concertos were slated for Friday’s Opening Gala; the remaining first, second and fourth concertos, the night thereafter.
The reason the BSO could afford potentially putting off its patrons with the latter program of less-popular material was simple: Anne-Sophie Mutter, the acclaimed German virtuoso, was scheduled to lead the orchestra as both soloist and conductor. While Ms. Mutter possesses many of the ‘star soloist’ characteristics that sell tickets–an award-winning recording career, performances in every major city, with every major orchestra, a sterling educational pedigree, etc–what separates her from her contemporaries is not her glittering CV. It is, rather, the distinctive and arresting emotional language of her playing.
That said, in the spirit of putting my attention span to the test, I opted for the latter of the two programs. [Having played the third and the fifth concertos in my younger years, I had little interest in seeing them performed. Frankly, even the rich musicality I expect of Ms. Mutter could not have erased the memories of being forced to play those works. All that frothiness, the lightness of bow, the incessant trills and superfluous grace notes. Give me Dvořák's Concerto in a minor or give me death, thank you very much.]
When I entered Symphony Hall just before 8PM on Saturday there wasn’t an empty seat in sight, save, thankfully, for mine. It is a testament to Ms. Mutter’s appeal that such a program appeared to be sold out, an otherwise unlikely scenario for a roster of concertos which most of the audience had doubtfully ever heard.
On the stage there was a significantly pared-down ensemble–one more in keeping with the chamber ensembles that would have performed these concertos during Mozart’s era. This more intimate arrangement, coupled with the lingering absence of Mr. Levine, seemed to suggest that the BSO would be doing things a bit differently this season. But the real focus was always Ms. Mutter, as the entire audience waited with bated breath for her to grace the stage.
Ms. Mutter did, in fact, grace the stage. First, with a black silk-satin and chiffon gown, and then, and much more notably, with her musicianship.
Throughout the program, she demonstrated an incredible range of voice in her approach, shifting effortlessly from fury to finesse, from defiant, heavy-fisted vigor to the most ephemeral effervescence. In each of the three concertos, she transformed perfectly ordinary motifs into something divine: sustained single notes which hovered above the room for a time and then melted away into nothingness; passages rife with deceptively difficult technical feats, wherein Ms. Mutter would jump from the G string to the E string (that is, skipping the two middle strings altogether) with aplomb; and her handling of Mozart’s characteristic, and nearly constant, trills–the rapid fluctuation between two notes. Typically, trills are almost purely decorative, but in Ms. Mutter’s hands they were sublime phrases in their own right, evocative of mischievous songbirds.
And yes, her many cadenzas–those perfunctory exhibitions of sprawling technical virtuosity–were certainly impressive, but it was during the fleeting minor motifs that she most impressed herself upon the audience. In these passages her tone was at its richest, languid and robust, one supple sostenuto after another. She seemed to burrow into the somber phrases and then languorously emerge, as if with a prolonged sigh. In short, her command of her instrument was often eclipsed by the conviction with which she played, inviting the audience into a musical experience as rare as it was otherworldly.
It is true that her sometimes less-than-traditional approach has earned her a Purist critic here and there, and I will admit that Ms. Mutter did seem most at home in Mozart’s music when she was playing his lighthearted Classical-era motifs with her trademark Romantic-era pathos. Yes, she took certain liberties: a generous and wide Germanic vibrato (which is not wholly historically accurate), a reoccurring rubato (the lingering to elongate a phrase–again, not wholly historically accurate considering how often it was employed outside of the composer’s notations), and, perhaps most frequently, her playing many already-rather-fast passages so rapidly that they were nearly indistinguishable, save for the passing effect they created. But it was precisely because of these liberties that the concertos, which to me have always felt claustrophobic in their ebullient simplicity, were suddenly fresh and relevant, intensely expressive instead of merely elegant.
The BSO did a commendable job of complementing Ms. Mutter’s musicality, especially considering that concertos like Mozart’s have a way of relegating the ensemble to a strictly supporting role. This pared-down setting seemed instead to highlight the individual musicians, affording a level of nuance often lost to the grand swell of a full symphonic setting. Gone was the stiffness, the separation between ensemble and soloist, the rigid call-and-response. At times, the relationship between the BSO and Ms. Mutter was so intimate I felt as though I was watching a relaxed rehearsal among close friends.
For the Boston Symphony Orchestra, this opening night series could have served to underscore the absence of Mr. Levine. Instead, it was a resounding celebration of those present: the dynamic virtuoso and the committed musicians of the BSO who, with or without their beloved conductor, are not only moving forward, but moving ahead.
For the premiere of StyleBoston’s third season, I partnered with an all-star team to bring you what I consider to be one of the best Fashion Forward features to date: a behind-the-scenes look at our Fall 2011 editorial shoot.
I’ll admit, as a whole this F/W season was wildly underwhelming for me. Throughout the shows in February, it seemed as though designers were reacting to continued buyer hesitation by pushing aside designs that could or would have felt new and fresh. Instead, in concert they gave us collections that not only pandered to the last-standing dollar, but also diluted, with their severe safeness, the very essence of the brands which designers were scrambling to save from financial woes. Gone were the idiosyncratic signatures of each designer–the differences that distinguish one brand from another–and in their stead was a mild sea of sameness. The waves advanced but never broke, and if they ever reached the shore, well, I must have missed them from where I was standing.
As a result of this conciliatory consensus among designers, the editorial pages of America’s major fashion tomes–Vogue, Elle, W, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire and the rest of their ilk–were chock full of predictable features hailing the neoclassicist revival as the next best thing since the no-carb diet. “Finally, designers have come back to reality and created sensible collections that every woman, in every city, in every country, of every shape, of every age, can wear!” Never mind that no fewer than twenty designers brought you nearly the same pencil skirt silhouette. Never mind that you most likely already own that very silhouette and have for over a decade. These are clothes you can buy, said the editors. And though seeing that tired phrase over and over again definitely annoyed me, I could hardly blame them. After all, designers lose money when their more outlandish pieces don’t sell and their retailers scale back their seasonal buys. Designers losing money = designers having smaller advertising budgets = designers spending fewer advertising dollars with America’s paragons of print. Either way, it was clear: the buzzword of the season was buy buy buy buy buy, and it was repeated ad nauseum.
My word was somewhat different: bored.
Of course, I enjoy a somewhat rare position: we at styleboston maintain a pretty strict separation between our sponsors and our editorial coverage, so I’m not beholden to tell you to buy buy buy buy buy whatever’s sitting on the racks at your nearest boutique or department store. That, frankly, just isn’t my thing. If you already have it, you probably don’t need another, and if we’re being honest with ourselves, you don’t actually need any of this. But fashion, at its best, is an incredible form of escapism, a bit of fantasy that you can put on and take off as you see fit. By my estimation, when a design hits that mark, it’s always a worthy investment.
All that in mind, the team and I selected our favorites from the Fall 2011 season for this feature. That labels like Comme des Garçons and Proenza Schouler made it onto that list is to be expected, but there were certainly a few surprises, too: a diaphanous cocktail dress from Christian Siriano, for example. The designer himself dubbed the tulle confection the “ChaCha” dress because of the way the skirt floats and sways away from the body as you move, and frankly, who could resist a dress that makes you want to dance until you drop? I mean, damn, even I was tempted to purchase the thing, and I don’t wear dresses (they don’t fit) and I hate dancing (because I can’t dance).
All kidding aside, I hope you’ll take a few moments to peruse the feature, Cosas Oscuras, and maybe, just maybe, remember that while fashion is a serious industry, it is not serious business. Consider some of fashion’s most historic moments… In 1947, Christian Dior rebelled against post-World-War-II fabric restrictions by using over 20 yards in a single silhouette. It was a perfectly pedantic whim, but in the process he débuted the revolutionary New Look. Yves Saint Laurent fantasized about a modern power woman, slick and in control. That fantasy manifested itself as the Le Smoking tuxedo. It was the first clear foray into menswear as womenswear, territory designers are still mining for inspiration to this very day. Or Savage Beauty, the Met’s Alexander McQueen retrospective, which not only drew record crowds, but was then extended, then sold over 20,000 new memberships as people vied to skip the four-hour lines. When it finally closed, the museum could hardly meet demand. In short, a little fantasy goes a long way.
And for those who wonder at my admittedly pretentious title, Cosas Oscuras, I’ll come clean: the phrase was plucked from one of my favorite lines of Pablo Neruda’s verse, “Te amo como se aman ciertas cosas oscuras…” I won’t bother translating it because, hey, this is the digital age. You, like me, have google.
So take it in, love it, hate it, burn it (difficult through a computer screen, but I admire persistence!). And, as always, please feel free to leave your feedback in the comments section.
Much love,
JGC
J Mendel is a label best-known for it’s coveted red-carpet creations. This is not generally the realm of innovation.
This dress, however, defies such constraints. It is quite beautiful, yes. But the technique at work here, lasercut pieces of calfhair stitched to layers of tulle, is spellbinding, and incredibly precise. It’s as if Gilles wanted to remind his public that he knows his stuff. And yes, he makes beautiful gowns.
It needs little embellishment, so skip the jewelry wherever possible. For your feet, disregard these awful boots and pair this technical wonder with a pair of sky-high sculptural platforms courtesy of Raphael Young or Diego Dolcini.
GET IT HERE.
It is a widely-acknowledged fact for Fall/Winter 2011: it’s going to a bleak season for shoes. Save for a few stellar updates on otherwise perfectly classic silhouettes, the assortment was, by and large, underwhelming. You’d think with all that hullabaloo over YSL v. Louboutin that the shoes would be otherwordly. Not so. In fact, I’m willing to wager all that fuss was orchestrated for the express purpose of distracting us from the fact that the collections are, sans fanfare,… hardly noteworthy.
Leave it to Casadei to fill a void in the market. Snakeskin platform with a sculpted wood heel? Yes, please. Stave off the winter doldrums with this pair, one of the few worth buying this season.
GET ‘EM HERE.
Catalina de La Torre is a Boston-based jewelry designer who is perhaps best known for her refined interpretations of rough-hewn stones, namely a series of geode rings which were as exquisite as they were ubiquitous. The Colombian-born de La Torre has aways exhibited an appreciation of natural forms, but what continues to set her work apart from the Elementary-School-Art-Teacher set is the modern way in which she renders these motifs.
Montmartre, the current collection, is a stunning addition to the designer’s repertoire. Yes,there is her love of clean, simple geometries, but she is clearly exploring new territory. Unimpeachably elegant territory, at that.
This pair is the perfect example, Lapis Lazuli and White Quartz? Parallel and perpendicular forms? That inky blue, which is Fall 2011′s major winner in the color category? It’s rare I appreciate such a simple harmony of materials and form, but these are just so damn perfect.
I would tell you where and how to wear them, but it’s unnecessary. Wear them everywhere, with everything. Inspire envy.
GET ‘EM HERE.
It’s nearly Fall. Our ephemeral Boston summer has made her appearance and, as with any lady of a certain refinement, made her exit. An intrigue, merely. Nothing more. Strike all that. Perhaps I’m jumping the proverbial gun, altogether. But in fashion, the business I’m in by some stroke of serendipity, summer has left. Whether the weather should concede is another subject entirely.
The coming weeks bring with them a new season, both for fashion and for StyleBoston. Come next Wednesday, we’ll be shooting our major Fall Fashion feature segment, taking a somewhat left-of-center approach. But right as our first segment of the new season airs (September 10th! Mark your calendars!), I will be in NYC, attending the S/S 2012 shows.
This is the nature of the beast. The inexhaustible machine which begets a particular, fashioncentric variety of A.D.D. I cannot articulate it sufficiently to those who do not work in the industry. I won’t bore you by trying. Consider it my good deed of the year.
To that end, please accept my apologies if my characteristically-long-winded Letters are… well, succinct. We’ll be back to my regularly-scheduled world of wordy horrors in no time. Because you were so worried, right? Yeah, right.
Much love,
JGC
Monsieur Louboutin is losing his battle against French-power-house Yves Saint Laurent over a pair of red-soled Palais pumps. You may recall when we (and everyone in the fashion industry) mentioned this petty scandal a few weeks back. While we have, to date, admired Christian for his insistence, there are few in the community, or otherwise, who believed he had much of a case, or, frankly, much of a reason to pursue one.
To begin with, his is a fairly new brand. Yes, his soles are, for most women, a distinct mark of his brand, but that’s hardly cause for excluding other, much more established, houses from using what is, after all, a primary color.
The latest blow to his cause is a ruling from Manhattan Federal Judge Victor Marrero, whose ruling stated, ”Because in the fashion industry color serves ornamental and aesthetic functions vital to robust competition, the court finds that Louboutin is unlikely to be able to prove that its red outsole brand is entitled to trademark protection, even if it has gained enough public recognition in the market to have acquired secondary meaning,” Judge Victor Marrero wrote in his opinion. This comes after Louboutin filed an injunction against Yves Saint Laurent to prevent the distribution of the Palais pump in question as the trial continues in France.
Harvey Lewin, an attorney for Camp Christian, said, “We think the judge missed it… The court essentially indicated that it does not believe that a single color can be a trademark in the fashion industry. We’re disheartened.”
Missed what, exactly, Mr. Lewin? That what was originally a flight of designer fancy and later became his sole brand identity (pun intended) is hardly able to be defended in an industry where colors are not the right of any given designer, but merely one tool in a designer’s box? Can you imagine the uproar if someone, anyone, attempted to trademark black? Or even, as we saw last season, the awful uprising of Salmon?
There is now a motion to cancel Louboutin’s earlier-granted trademark on the red sole, and representatives for both Monsieur Louboutin and Yves Saint Laurent will appear later this month to provide arguments.
I’m willing to wager the motion will be upheld. Either way, the entire debate has overshadowed the real point: perhaps it’s time for Monsieur Louboutin to get back to designing shoes which stand out from his competitors in ways other than the color of their sole.
No more resting on your red-lacquered laurels, my friend.
Boston Magazine dubbed Arlington-based demicouturier Nirva the Best of Boston Womenswear this month. Hardly a shock. What’s shocking, however, is her sample sale. HAPPENING NOW.
Make an appointment with the inexhaustibly charming Ms. Derbekyan sooner than later. I have a feeling her stunning collection won’t last long on the shelves…
Brooke Kanani is a New-England-based jewelry designer whose work is an artful study in tension: raw, natural elements set against refined, Old World handiwork. The results are, for lack of a better word, thrilling. Organic motifs rendered in a spirit of modernity.
Hardly surprising considering Kanani apprenticed for four years with a Polish master. Her pieces are one of a kind, and made entirely by hand in her studio.
This sterling silver necklace, in particular, has become my raison d’être. The talon-like pieces, the organic, withered elements, the horseshoe-crab toggle? Brilliant, in a word. Perfect with a plain t-shirt, of course, but even better as a complement to an insanely-low cut tuxedo jacket à la Tom Ford’s recent return to womenswear. Or, for the menfolk, over a stiffly-starched, leather-collared dress shirt.
C’est parfait, non?
MASTHEAD
Joseph Gordon Cleveland
EXECUTIVE EDITOROlivia Cartland
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Alexis Van Tilburg, Christina Kim, Daniel Christopher Sabau, Elizabeth Bevington Seawright, Harry Koffman, George Veve, Kaitlin Courtney Quinn, Kimberly Walleston, Stephanie RossiABOUT THE SB BLOG
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